I’ve talked about the Konica Hexar a couple of times on this blog, it’s even been reviewed here by master musician Rob Mackillop, but so far, despite owning one for a while, I’m yet to write a full and conclusive review of all its features – I’m not going to write one either. This isn’t because I don’t think it’s a good camera, I think it’s a brilliant camera (sort of), I’ve just really struggled to make it work for me. As such, I thought I’d play devils advocate to the usual rave reviews and pick a few holes in what seems to be commonly seen as a bit of an untouchable classic.
A disinclination to shoot what I don’t like
I’ve recently found myself less and less inclined to force myself to use cameras that don’t feel right for me, and using the Konica Hexar quite strongly gives me that feeling. This isn’t to say that the Konica Hexar isn’t a great camera – in essence, it really is! Its 35mm f/2 lens is very nice, it has very good active autofocus, a nice bright parallax correcting viewfinder, and being a slightly bigger camera it handles very nicely. The story doesn’t quite end there though.
To me, the Hexar feels a little like a complicated camera trapped in the body of a simple one. If you use it in a simple way – much I think like Rob does – I suspect it can be very rewarding; Rob certainly seems to enjoy his, and gets great shots too.
My issue is with when you want to use it as something more than a point & shoot. Along side the automatic functions common to the genre of cameras the Konica Hexar best fits into, it features aperture priority and even a full manual mode. On top of this, it also offers a few extra options often lauded as “hidden” features that unlock its potential.
Unfortunately for the Konica Hexar, I don’t see it like that. It’s actually this raft of features that largely speaking have put me off using it. As I mention in this post, I find a preference in cameras that have clarity of function. To my mind, this is something the Hexar lacks. It’s a really nice fully automatic point & shoot, but, it’s also a slightly clunky fully manual camera with a bunch of features that are a little confusing to navigate – and this doesn’t sit well with my needs or desires for a camera.
The Konica Hexar’s “hidden” features
At this juncture, I just want to acknowledge a comment I received on my Instagram way back when I first got the Konica Hexar and posted a photo of it. The comment went something like this: “Please don’t just write another post about all the hidden features”. I said at the time that I had no intention of doing this, unfortunately, I’m going to have to go back on my response a little here.
That being said, I made the comment because I already had a fairly strong feeling about not wanting to talk about these features in the same way others have. I’d read a few reviews, and found myself a little irritated by all this “hidden” feature stuff. As someone with quite strong feelings toward good user interface design, the idea that a camera’s user interface would hide features from the user baffles me to the core.
The (not really) “hidden” features
The reality is of course, they aren’t really hidden, they’re simply unusually placed within the interface. What I can only assume has happened is that over the years since the Konica Hexar was released people have bought them second hand without the manuals. More specifically, I guess most people who see the features as hidden must have just not seen the quick reference guide that no doubt came in the box when the camera was new. If you haven’t seen it, here is a copy:
The PDF can be downloaded here.
As you can see, to access a lot of it, you have to go into various modes then press a combination of buttons. To me, this isn’t representative of hidden features, it just feels like slightly shit user interface design. Now, admittedly, some of the features are set and forget – or at very least preferential things that won’t have to be accessed often, but some aren’t.
Looking back at my review of the Contax T3 and its custom menu – something that I spoke about favourably in the context of that camera – I do feel I am being a little unfair to the Konica Hexar here. I just think it again comes down to the lack of clarity of function. With the Contax, it’s customisations are very much set and forget – major features are all available through clearer functions when the camera is switched on. With the Hexar, we are talking about some pretty major features that you have to fumble through the user interface to find.
As the quick guide shows, to get to exposure compensation you press ‘select’ in either auto mode, then used the two unlabelled up and down buttons to set it. To set the ISO manually you have to switch it into aperture priority, the press and hold ‘select’ for a moment then again use the unlabelled up and down buttons. Yet, it has a dedicated button just for the self-timer. If button space is as limited as it feels the designers felt, surely a self-timer could have been put in a menu along with these other features…?
Crap manual focus modes
Next on my hit list of frustrations is the crap manual focus modes. As you can see looking back again at the quick guide there are a whole bunch of manual focus modes. One touch infinity has its uses and is easy enough to access, but as soon as you want to set focus to a distance, you are into the world of button pressing. This isn’t usual for compacts with manual focus, but for a camera of this size, it feels a little impractical. It’s certainly a step down from the manual focus control of the Contax T2, which is a much smaller camera.
It also has a focus hold function that could be useful on a camera like this for the separation of either autoexposure or autofocus from the half shutter press. The issue is, you have to press two buttons at the same time to activate it. Quite often cameras include a button on the back of the camera for thumb activation of modes like this – this isn’t the case with the Konica Hexar.
In the case of the Konica Hexar, the button is on the top quite close to the shutter button. I’m sure with practice this comes easier, but I found it a right fiddle to press. I also found can result in accidental exposures if you try to press the button with the same hand as you’re pressing the shutter button.
That said, since the distance reading is only accurately shown on top of the camera, the only way to use it with ease and accuracy is to look at the top of the camera rather than through the viewfinder when activating it. And since you have to look at the top of the camera to use it, as a feature, it’s not that much more useful than just using the manual focus mode – and that’s despite how fiddly the manual focus is to set.
Viewfinder/LCD information
Another frustration I have is with the information the camera feeds back to you at the moment you half press the button. To start with, the most useful information is displayed on the top of the camera via the LCD. This is pretty pointless since you can’t see it with the camera to your eye, and even if you could see it, the information it relays is a little baffling. In program mode, it tells you either (not both) the set shutter speed or the aperture. There is a system that determines which it shows but can’t get my head around it in any way that it sticks in my brain. But as I say, it’s basically moot, since you can’t see the when you’re taking a photo anyway.
Inside the viewfinder, you do get a basic distance indicator, parallax correction and a few little lights that tell you useful information. But none of the information is nearly as useful as having a shutter speed and or set aperture readout display.
Silent mode
My final complaint is with the silent mode. Perhaps the most interesting thing about the silent mode – at least depending on the version you have – is that it might actually be the only truly hidden mode on the camera. The internet tells me (here) that it was only the earlier Konica Hexar’s that had a silent mode – after that they lost some sort of patent battle and had to take it off. The internet also tells me (here) that the later models did still have the silent mode, it just needs unlocking via a crazy combination of buttons akin to activating some sort of horrendous “finish him” move on Mortal Kombat…
Assuming you have either an early model, or you’ve entered the magic code you can active silent mode by turning the camera off, then turn it back on whilst holding the “MF” button (obviously!?). Of course, if you have set a manual focus distance, you will have to reset it again after you turn it on, but never mind that…
Silent Slow mode
This silent mode is actually just a slow mode. This camera is very fast, and in normal use, pretty quiet. It’s not silent though. Switching “silent mode” on doesn’t make it silent either. It’s hard to argue with the fact that silent mode does indeed make it slightly quieter, but all it really does is slow the autofocus and film advance down so the pitch of their actions is lower and therefore less obvious in a quiet room.
There are of course many other cameras that are just as quiet, though it’s fair to say that the Konica Hexar is at very least one of, if not the quietest autofocus auto-advancing camera I’ve come across.
Perfect program auto
That feels like a lot of complaining – it’s certainly more complaining than I anticipated writing. Despite all the complaints though, I do now want to draw your attention back to two things I said at the beginning of this review. The first is that I believe the Konica Hexar is in essence very good, if not excellent. The second is that I think it’s most good in program auto.
Program auto and “Critical speed setting”
The program auto on the Konica Hexar is much as you might find on most cameras. It sets an intelligent average of shutter and aperture to get the best average results in any given lighting. Where it has one significant advantage is in one of the “hidden” features: the “Critical speed setting”
This feature effectively stops the camera from choosing a shutter speed lower than the one you set the “critical speed” to. This only works in program mode of course, but it makes the program mode pretty much the best program mode I can think of in any camera that’s even remotely similar to this one.
In simple terms, if you set the cameras critical speed to 1/30 – even if the light meter in the camera determines that there isn’t enough light – it won’t use a slower shutter speed. Of course, it does mean you risk under exposure in more extreme lighting, but if you’ve ever used a compact camera that favours slower shutter speeds over wider apertures, you might appreciate just how useful this feature is.
This feature can also allow a shooting experience that’s akin to how I enjoy shooting cameras like the Olympus AF-10 Super (which doesn’t have the lower shutter speeds at all).
Skip to the end
As I guess I’ve made it quite clear that me and this camera didn’t entirely gel. I always try and give cameras I don’t gel with the benefit of the doubt, and quite often try to write reviews that talk through modes through the eyes of the sort of person that might find them useful. Unfortunately for the Konica Hexar, there are so many design decisions that I find confusing to use that in many ways I just can’t see how anyone could perfectly get on with every facet of this camera’s function. I also don’t buy the idea the hidden modes unlock the camera’s potential – the camera’s potential would be much better unlocked if it was simply less confusing to use. Modes being accessed through combinations of unlabelled buttons combined with important shot feedback that can only be seen on the top of the camera just doesn’t work for me.
That being said, I feel I have a growing awareness of my own pickiness. I’ve always appreciated clarity of function, but writing the post about the lure of the uncomplicated camera made me realise just how much of a preference I have toward simple design – so perhaps this is all just my issue, and there’s nothing wrong with the camera at all?
It’s certainly fair to say that I’m put off the Konica Hexar almost entirely because of the user interface. But perhaps more importantly, it’s also very fair to say that on paper what this camera offers the user is pretty much unique. If – unlike me – you can ignore the confusing stuff, and just get on with taking photos with it as a point & shoot, I suspect you’ll get on very well with it. The program auto mode with its critical speed function, the very good 35mm f/2 lens and impressive autofocus make for a combination simply not found on any other point & shoot. Setting aside my cynical attitude, even the silent mode is pretty damned impressive and brings another layer of unique function to this type of camera.
Ultimately, my point here was not to pull apart this camera entirely. I know I am becoming pickier, but in this instance, I just felt my pickiness might shed some light on a few caveats that seem to me to be often overlooked by those who favour it. The Konica Hexar is a great camera, but to my mind it’s not quite as untouchable as it is sometimes touted as being.
Cheers for reading,
Hamish
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Without a doubt, the 1993 Konica Hexar AF was and remains the most advanced fixed-lens 35mm “point and shoot” ever produced. Konica centered this masterpiece around its newly-designed 35mm f/2 Hexar, a direct descendant of the famous 1950s Nikon 35mm f/1.8 W-Nikkor, which itself was produced in relatively small quantities in Nikon rangefinder and Leica screw mount.
Nothing about Konica’s early 1990s camera product line, consisting mostly of semi-advanced point-and-shoots in the form of the “Big Mini” series, would have foreshadowed the AF. The AF’s most immediate ancestor appears to have been the 1988 Konica “Genba Kantoku” series of autofocus point-and-shoots made for the construction industry. That line had four basic models, with the following lenses: a 28mm f/3.5, a 35mm f/3.5, a switchable 40mm / 60mm, and a 28-56mm zoom. These tough, weatherproof cameras were entirely automated with no meaningful user override. These cameras were never really exported to North America and remained largely unknown outside of Japan until the internet era.
The Hexar AF came in two primary versions: the black original Hexar AF (1993) and the better-featured Hexar AF Silver (1997). There were also a few limited editions like the “Classic,” the “Gold,” and the “Rhodium.” With the AF Silver arguably being the “definitive” version, let’s take a look at that one specifically.
Specifications Compared
Here is the AF compared with the internet’s favorite point-and-shoots with fixed lenses around the 35mm focal length: the Contax T3, the Fujifilm Klasse, the Leica Minilux, the Nikon 35Ti, and the Yashica T4.
| Hexar AF Silver | Contax T3 | Fujifilm Klasse S | Leica Minilux | Nikon 35Ti | Yashica T4 | |
| Year Introduced | 1997 | 2001 | 2007 | 1995 | 1993 | 1990 |
| ASA Range | 6-6400 | 25-5000 | 25-3200 | 25-5000 | 25-5000 | 50-3200 |
| ASA Override? | Yes | No; Non-DX Defaults to ASA 100 | Yes | No; Non-Dx Defaults to ASA 100 | No; Non-Dx Defaults to ASA 100 | No; Non-Dx Defaults to ASA 100 |
| Lens | 35mm f/2 | 35mm f/2.8 | 38mm f/2.8 | 40mm f/2.4 | 35mm f/2.8 | 35mm f/3.5 |
| Lens Design | 7 Elements / 6 Groups | 6 Elements / 4 Groups | 4 Elements / 3 Groups | 6 Elements / 4 Groups | 6 Elements / 4 Groups | 4 Elements / 3 Groups |
| Lens Type | Modified Xenotar | Sonnar | Tessar | Double-Gauss | Double-Gauss | Tessar |
| Viewfinder Coverage / Mag. | ? | 85% / .50x | 85% / .48x | 83% / .35x | 85% / .50x | ? |
| Filter Size | 46mm | None; Accessory for 30.5mm Filters | None | None | None | None |
| Metering | Center / Spot (in M) | Center | Center | Center / Spot | Center | Center |
| Min. Focus | 0.60m | 0.35m | 0.40m | 0.70m | 0.40m | 0.35mm |
| Focus Lock? | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Auto Parallax-Corrected? | Yes; Automatic | No | No | No | No | No |
| Exposure Modes | P / A / M | P / A | P / A | P / A | P / A | P |
| Exposure Compensation? | +/- 2 | +/- 2 | +/- 2 | +/- 2 | +/- 2 | None |
| Max Shutter Speed | 1/250 | 1/1200 | 1/500 (f/2.8); 1/1000 (f/16) | 1/400 | 1/500 | 1/700 |
| Flash | External GN System | Built-In; Optional External TLA 200 | Built-In | Built-In | Built-In | Built-In |
| Battery | 2CR5 | CR2 | CR2 | CR123A | CR123A | CR123A |
| Weight | 495g | 230g | 270g | 366g | 310g | 190g |
The Good
I have owned a Hexar AF Silver for over 20 years. In my opinion, the most impressive aspects of the AF include: (1) its fantastic lens; (2) its modern implementation of the 1960s guide number flash system; (3) its nice parallax-corrected viewfinder; (4) extensive user control over all of its functions; (5) its optional “silent mode;” and (6) the ability to use regular camera filters.
Lens: The 35mm f/2 Hexar lens on the AF is a multicoated, Xenotar-type descendant of the Nikon’s 35mm f/1.8 W-Nikkor. The two lenses perform remarkably similarly. The Hexar even displays the same focus shift as the Nikkor. Aware of the focus shift issue, Konica designed the autofocus system of the AF to compensate automatically for any shift in focus. The Hexar’s only real shortcoming is its noticeable barrel distortion. Oddly enough, the 1950s W-Nikkor’s barrel distortion is much better controlled, perhaps due to its use of discontinued (and slightly radioactive) lanthanum glass. The Hexar AF’s lens was so desired that large Japanese camera stores commissioned Konica to produce several Leica screw mount versions of it, including the limited edition, brass-barrel 35mm f/2 UC Hexanon.
Guide Number Flash System: The AF’s electronic leaf shutter permits flash synchronization at all shutter speeds. The AF’s external hot shoe flash system was a modern implementation of the old 1960s guide number flash system, appearing in such products as the Auto SE and the Auto S3. This system was quite ingenious. Using virtually any electronic flash in existence that has a manual mode, the user would simply dial in the flash’s guide number (at ASA 100). With the camera knowing that the flash would always fire at that full power setting, it would automatically compensate for both the ambient lighting and the focusing distance to arrive at the correct exposure for both indoor and daylight conditions. Of course, the AF can also use any regular old electronic “auto mode” flash. Konica did offer the HX-14 flash that could operate both in GN and auto mode.
Automatically Parallax-Corrected Viewfinder: The AF’s bright viewfinder automatically compensates for parallax error by collapsing the framelines to the appropriate size. The viewfinder also includes lights for over/under exposure, a spartan distance scale which collapses appropriately, and a warning light if the subject is too close to focus.
Silent Mode: During the 1990s, Konica got into a bit of legal trouble by including an optional “silent mode” where the camera makes virtually no noise when autofocusing, tripping the shutter, and advancing the film. This apparently appropriated another company’s intellectual property. While this function does slow down the autofocus, it is still doable. The focus and advance are not truly “silent,” but they are pretty muted. Because of the aforementioned legal trouble, Konica stated that it had “removed” this feature from the AF Silver. However, if you know the secret code, you can enable it.
Filters: The AF’s compatibility with any screw-in 46mm filters is another great attribute. Filters are very useful for, e.g., protecting a lens, for black and white photography, and for increasing exposure time with neutral density filters.
Functionality
Without going through the whole list, here are the salient features of AF in no particular order:
Multiple Exposure Modes: The AF can operate in three separate modes: Program, Aperture-Priority, and Manual. “Program” is a true point-and-shoot mode, with the camera setting both the aperture and shutter speed. “Aperture Priority” is also straightforward, with you setting the aperture on the rotating dial and the camera sets the appropriate shutter speed. Manual mode is less straightforward, with you setting the aperture on the dial and then scrolling through some buttons to set the shutter speed via the LCD.
Minimum Shutter Speed Setting: To prevent camera shake from ruining your photos, you can program the AF to a minimum shutter speed while in Program or in Aperture-Priority mode: 1/4 to 1/60 of a second. I find that 1/30 is generally sufficient if you have a somewhat steady hand.
Focus & Exposure Lock: A half press of the shutter button will lock both the focus and exposure. This is an essential feature for this type of camera.
Exposure Compensation: In either P or A mode, you can easily set exposure compensation using two buttons beneath the switch.
Film Speed Override: The DX override is a fantastic feature. It allows one to use non-DX coded film cassettes at any ASA. It also works well for exposure compensation when using filters.
Automatic Infrared Film Focus Compensation: When using infrared film, the AF has a setting that will automatically adjust the focus appropriately.
Multiple Exposures: The AF has a feature that easily permits multiple exposures, as many of you want, within reason.
The So-So
Despite the AF’s impressive optics and features, there are a few aspects that could have been better.
1/250 Top Shutter Speed: The most popular gripe about the AF is its relatively-low maximum shutter speed of 1/250. This limitation is puzzling as leaf shutters can often achieve at least 1/500.
Size/Dimensions: Although the AF generally operates like a point-and-shoot, it is not point-and-shoot sized, more resembling the dimensions of a classic 1960s fixed-lens rangefinder.
No Exposure Information in Viewfinder: While the AF’s viewfinder contains automatic parallax corrected framelines, an abbreviated distance scale, warnings for over/under exposure, and an indication if the subject is too close to focus, there is no actual exposure information communicated.
Too Many Buttons? While the AF can do a lot, many of its advanced functions require some button and switch combinations that are neither necessarily intuitive or easy to remember without a cheat sheet.
The Data Back: The AF Silver came with a data back whose only function is to perhaps ruin your photo by imprinting a date on the bottom right quadrant of your negative. While this function may have been useful for some documentary, industrial, or scientific purposes, it is useless for taking real photos. The date function only goes up to December 31, 2019.
Tips for Use
Neutral Density Filters: One of the best things you can do to get the most out of the AF is to invest in a high-quality 2 or 3 stop neutral density filter. If using 400/800 speed film in daylight conditions, a neutral density filter is pretty much necessary. A 3-stop ND filter reduce 400 speed film to 50 and 800 speed to 100, allowing you to use the same roll in a variety of lighting conditions.
Unlock the Silent Mode!: If you have a Silver AF, that had the silent mode disabled from the factory, be sure to unlock the secret silent mode. The code can be found through an internet search.
Take Advantage of the GN Flash System: Because the AF Silver does not require the use of a proprietary flash, invest in whatever large or small flash that suits you, as long as it can shoot in manual mode (i.e., full, 1/2, 1/4 power, etc.). The Konica HX-14 flash is cute but not necessary. The daylight fill flash feature works quite well but can lean towards a little overexposure, just like SLR TTL flashes.
Treat It Like a Point and Shoot: At the end of the day, although the AF has remarkable capability and user override, in my opinion, the AF is really best used as an advanced point and shoot that can excel in available-light situations.
The Konica Hexar AF (they have a manual focus one), is sort of a point and shoot because it’s fast, fits in your pocket and is not large and heavy. But not really. If I were to make direct comparisons, it would be with the Contax G1/G2,…or even a Leica M.
The first time I ever saw one was on the streets of NYC while doing a shoot. Almost directly across the street from me was Peter Lindbergh doing a shoot with Helena Christensen. While I could see he was using a Nikon F5 for the shoot, during stylist or lighting breaks, he was snapping away with another little camera. I asked an assistant, and he said it was a Konica Hexar AF,…Black. So I thought I should check it out. Did PL know something I didn’t know?
Now I get it. The Konica Hexar AF is like a Leica! The only thing that doesn’t put it in the same league is the fixed 35mm lens. (but the Hexar RF does have interchangeable lenses) So, if you have to have interchangeable lenses, this is not the camera for you. But sharpness and contrast? Holy mackerel! Silent? Ditto. If you love the 35mm focal length, you’ll love this camera.
Center Weighted Modes
It operates in one of 3 modes;: Program, Aperture preferred, and Manual.The Konica Hexar AF Program mode is pretty much like on every other camera. Except it allows you to control its biasing to aperture or shutter speed. Which is even better than Nikon or Canon cameras. So you even have control in Program mode. The top LCD tells you if your aperture or shutter speed are beyond light conditions!
Of course A and M modes gives you full control, and assumes you know what you’re doing. Another reason it’s not a point and shoot.
Cleverly, in P mode the top-deck LCD displays the shutter speed if the camera can use the aperture you set, but displays the aperture when it can’t (the shutter speed is at the max or user-set min so you don’t need to see it). This way of keeping the photographer informed while minimizing display clutter works well.
Weird Program Mode
Note that in P mode the Hexar will not use a shutter speed slower than the user-set minimum, even if it is required for proper exposure, but still takes the picture. While this prevents blur, it can lead to underexposure. The camera warns you of this by flashing the underexposure warning light in the finder and the LCD display on the top deck. You can set the minimum shutter speed as slow as 1/8, and there’s little reason to use P mode when not using the camera hand-held, so this isn’t a problem. The other exposure modes give you back full control when you want it.
Exposure
Shutter speed is as long as 30 seconds, and is even usable in P mode. Red plus and minus signs in the viewfinder is a very accurate exposure meter. In A and P mode, exposure lock can be accomplished with just a partial press on shutter release. No buttons or menus to navigate. When both plus and minus light up, you’re spot on exposure wise.
The shutter speed ranges from 30 seconds to 1/250 second. Totally user controllable. Something not possible with a Yashica T4, Contax T2, or even a Nikon 35Ti. It also allows you to set a minimum shutter speed between 1/8 to 1/60. The minus sign flashes if there is not enough light.
Flash
The flash is sort of a Contax TLA-200 in size. There are 2 made by Konica for this camera. The Hexar HX14 flash, (GN of 43 at 100 ISO), or you can use the HX18w. The camera can also communicate with any Nikon flash, but I’d stick to the smaller ones, like the SB-30. You don’t want a flash bigger than the camera. Flash is controlled at the flash,…not the camera. For the Konica flashes, there is a 5-10 second recycle. Yuck! And you’re controlling exposure through camera aperture, not the flash. This ain’t no 3-D Matrix metering. I say, “boo”, but it’s no big deal to some. At least it has an accessory hot shoe.
Another thing I don’t like is it has no PC connector. I think Konica was confused as to whether this would be a point and shoot or true rangefinder. And no redeye reduction.(but the flash is pretty far away from the lens, so probably not needed) It uses flashmatic, which is used by most point and shoots, but gives user controls found only on pro cameras. This is why most have a true love/hate relationship with this camera, and it’s not unusual to be scratching your head on some design features.
Autofocus
Autofocus? One of the best I’ve seen. The Konica Hexar AF can easily compete with a modern day Nikon or Canon. The multibeam system is extremely accurate, and you’ll find no complaints here. The manual focus version of this camera serves up no advantage. Unless you just like manual focusing. Like me. You can focus to within 2 feet. You can switch to manual focus with just the press of the ‘MF’ button on the top deck. And easily back to AF again. However, manual focusing is no Leica. But then I never liked it on my Contax G either.
The viewfinder is clear and accurate. It’s both bright and distortion free. The Konica Hexar AF viewfinder is not as good as a Leica M7, but miles ahead of the Contax G1/T2/T3, Yashica T4, or Nikon 35Ti. And there’s minimal ‘crap’ in the viewfinder, making the frame lines easy to see. And those same frame lines correct for parallax. Can you see my confusion in figuring out what category this camera fits in?
Autoload and rewind are smooth, as is the almost silent film advance. The quality of the camera is obvious in just film advance alone.
Well Built
The body is very well built and just feels good. And the lens is easily in the same stratosphere as Zeiss, Leica, and others. Except it’s fixed. Filters are 46mm, and since the front doesn’t rotate while focusing, polarizers are easy to use. Besides the excellent ergonomics, the “silent” mode is unbelievable! I don’t even think a Leica with a “blimp” can compare. It’s even super quiet when not in silent mode. To the extent that it’s startling on first use. Shutter lag? None. I know there’s some microsecond lag, but I cannot detect it. And since the lens is already in position from half press of shutter button, it doesn’t move when the picture is snapped.
The Good;
Sharp lens at f/2.0 and above. Cutting sharp at f/2.8 and above.
Accurate autofocus.
Maximum user control in all modes.
Compatible with Nikon flashes.
Clear and bright viewfinder and movable frame lines.
Shutter lag as short as any Leica.
Great ergonomics. Solid feel.
Silent!
Peter Lindbergh has one. (or had,…that was the late 90’s)
The Bad;
Slow max shutter speed. (1/250)
No PC connector. (yes, Contax G’s have a PC connector)
Uses “Flashmatic”,…old technology. However,…works well.
Not expensive, but not cheap. Case is extra.
Similar in size to Contax G1/G2,….may be good or bad.
No interchangeable lenses. (but, remember,…this is the Hexar, not Hexar RF)
Takes batteries. (as do all AF cameras)
No accommodation for cable release.
To Sum it Up
Whether using as a back-up camera, or your main camera, it’s a great camera at the price. Prices are about the same as Contax T2’s, but with a lot more control. Hell, if you are the kind of person that can shoot everything with a Yashica T4, then you can shoot everything with this camera. It’s not quite a Leica, but will produce images as sharp. Don’t forget to take the lens cap off! Find Konica Hexar
View the manual for the Konica Minolta Hexar here, for free. This user manual comes under the category video cameras and has been rated by 1 people with an average of a 6.9. This manual is available in the following languages: English. Do you have a question about the Konica Minolta Hexar?
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Frequently asked questions
Can’t find the answer to your question in the manual? You may find the answer to your question in the FAQs about the Konica Minolta Hexar below.
Is the manual of the Konica Minolta Hexar available in English?
Yes, the manual of the Konica Minolta Hexar is available in English .
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#1
These Konica Hexar AF instructions are better, certainly more concise and clear, than the painful official instructions.
AND some tricks/workarounds to overcome this camera’s EXPOSURE INDEX and SHUTTER SPEED limitations. Hope they work.. please report your experience.
http://www.tedm.com/hexar/hexar_p.pdf
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#2
I got some great results with my Hexar AF’s but never warmed to them as I always felt that I was working around automation or trying to remember some quirk in the interface. If I had used them more, I’m sure that would have eased. Your post had me looking for a scan of the quick guide that came with the cameras and found one to post, I recall it having more info than this one (is this incomplete?). It was handy in the camera bag.
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#3
I stopped using my Hexar AF when I found it didn’t like low light situations…or high light situations. And it didn’t like seriously-pushed fast film.
I need to play with the workarounds I posted here yesterday…maybe they’ll allow me to love this camera.
http://www.tedm.com/hexar/hexar_p.pdf
note especially:
«Hexar S-Mode (sort of, anyway..) Yep, it’s true, the Hexar does not sport a shutter priority mode. Programmed aperture preference (P-Mode), Aperture priority (A-mode) and full manual (M-Mode), it’s all there. But there’s no way to crank the selector button all the way up to an S-Mode. What the Hexar does have though, is a user programmable camera shake critical speed. Combined with the P-Mode, it offers a programmed shutter preference mode with full stop speed settings from 1/4 to 1/60th plus 1/250th. Here’s how it works: ■ Select P-Mode. For the slower speeds (1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, and 1/60), set the camera shake critical speed to the shutter speed required -attainable by keeping the Select button pressed. Set the aperture wheel to 22. This very small aperture will cause the Hexar to use the slowest shutter speed available to it. This will be the selected camera shake critical speed, and when there’s still too little light -as is often the case with f22 and the slower films the Hexar particularly favours- will automatically open up the aperture to one appropriate to the camera shake critical speed. ■ For the fastest speed (1/250), turn the aperture wheel to 2. This large aperture will cause the Hexar to use the fastest shutter speed available to it. This is the shutter top speed of 1/250, and when there’s ■ still too much light -as is often the case outdoors with f2- will automatically close down the aperture to one appropriate to the camera shake critical speed. Hexar Silent Photography, Hexar S-mode contributed by Peter van de Haar
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#4
I got a Hexar AF earlier this year. It came to me unexpectedly and non-functional, and frankly I wasn’t sure if I would like it (assuming I could repair it, which I did), given my preference for manual, non-battery-dependent cameras. I’ve been surprisingly pleased with it. The Program mode works essentially as a smart aperture priority mode, which I’ve found the most useful, but for street work it’s very easy to lock in the same settings I normally use on maunal cameras and shoot similarly. I haven’t encountered problems with accurately metering for film speeds from 50 to 1600.
Trying to use the camera in full Manual mode all the time, however, seems to me an exercise in frustration. If I’m in a situation where I want to use varied manual settings, I’ll bring another camera. Like all tools, the Hexar AF is better suited to some tasks than to others.
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#5
I find the shutterbutton finicky. Can’t seem to press it halfway and have it focus on something. Half the time it won’t take pictures. I’ll have to give it one more go. I really like the silent mode of this thing. But if I can’t make a photo on the moment supreme I will sell it.
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#6
I find the shutterbutton finicky. Can’t seem to press it halfway and have it focus on something. Half the time it won’t take pictures. I’ll have to give it one more go. I really like the silent mode of this thing. But if I can’t make a photo on the moment supreme I will sell it.
Cleaning the shutter button contacts may help, and it’s fairly common problem area. I cleaned mine when I repaired the camera and the half-press works perfectly.
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#8
Cleaning the shutter button contacts may help, and it’s fairly common problem area. I cleaned mine when I repaired the camera and the half-press works perfectly.
Thanks. So Letting it be serviced might be a good idea? I am not going to tinker with it myself. I better start doing that with a cheap camera
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#9
Thanks. So Letting it be serviced might be a good idea? I am not going to tinker with it myself. I better start doing that with a cheap camera
Yes, provided you can find someone willing to work on it who is familiar with these cameras. There shouldn’t be a lot to service in the traditional sense, so the cost shouldn’t be too high. Do a little reading on the internet about the shutter button repair before you talk to shops about servicing so you know what’s involved — it’s well-documented.
It’s really not a difficult repair, so it might be something you are willing to tackle once you see how it’s done.